MK1 RHD Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

Monday, 25 September 2017  |  Admin

 

The tutorial will show you how to convert your MK1 Caddy, Golf or Scirocco 1 & 2 to Hydraulic Clutch using the components that you purchased in our shop.

We designed many years ago and has now become the standard for MK1 conversions. 


This exact set up has been copied many times, but rest assured this is the original and quality components are always used for factory like reliability.

As well as the DIY kit, we also offer a fully welded conversion as a "plug n play" option if you do not want to carry out the conversion yourself, which you can find HERE



First thing is to remove the steering column and pedals out of your vehicle, once you have done this you will need to strip the column and pedal box. You can get away with leaving some parts attached, but it makes the job more fiddly, plus stripping it bare gives you an opportunity to clean and replace any worn components. 



 

Pedal preparation 

Cut off the excess bracket at top of clutch pedal and grind smooth. Then clean paint off the other side of pedal ready for welding.

Pass the clevis pin through hole and weld (Make sure you put this in the correct way!)

Clevis now welded!

Drill your pedal with a 3-4mm hole and grind to a point in the same area so that the return spring does not bind against the pedal.


 

Your completed clutch pedal will now look something like this:

 

Pedal box preparation

If removed, re-fit or replace the pedal stop rubber (We stock these in the shop if needed)

Now re-fit the pedal to the pedal box, and then cable tie the pedal tight to the rubber stop. Then fit one of the M10 washers over the clevis pin.

Weld the supplied M8 bolts to bracket as shown below (this isnt necessary but is preferred! 

Drill out the threads on the supplied Master Cylinder with a 9mm drill bit, and then bolt the master cylinder to the bracket.


 

Offer the bracket up to the column and fit the loop of the master cylinder over the clevis pin (make sure you have fitted the washer first).


Once you have found the rough position of the bracket you can now mark the column where the paint will need to be removed (Master cylinder should be fully extended).

Now clean off the paint on all touching edges of the bracket.

Make sure the bracket is square and lined up before welding.

Once your happy of the position tack weld the bracket to the column.

Now cut off the cable tie and check the movement of the master cylinder and check that is not binding.

When your happy with full movement and positioning you can then weld fully to the column

(IMPORTANT: REMOVE SLAVE CYLINDER FROM THE BRACKET BEFORE FULLY WELDING OTHERWISE YOU WILL DESTROY THE RUBBER SEALS INSIDE!).

Once the metalwork has all cooled down you can now prep the pedal box & pedal for some satin black paint (we have not painted ours just yet in this tutorial).

Now you can start assembly, make sure you lube all the pivot points using fresh grease or copper ease.

Fit the pedal and washer.

You can now bolt on the master cylinder, fit the second washer, split pin & return spring.

The pedal box is now ready to fully re-assemble and fit back into the vehicle.



Teflon Braided Hose

If you have purchased the full kit and are unsure on how to attach the stainless fittings to the PTFE braided hose then take a look at the video below:

We will have supplied enough hose for you application, but you may want to shorten it for your setup. 

Once you are happy with the length of the hose, install one of the fittings. Now feed the hose through your bulkhead/firewall in your chosen position, before installing the second fitting.